On June 27th and 28th, Likoma Island
hosted a celebration of St. Peter. St. Peter’s Cathedral, of course, takes
Peter’s name. The festival weekend began with a baptism ceremony on Saturday
afternoon, with approximately 30 babies being baptized. While this may sound
like a lot of babies, baptism ceremonies near Easter and Christmas can have
well upwards of 80 babies! Katherine was kindly asked to stand with one of the
mother’s as the godmother of her 6 week old son, Smith. At her turn, she handed
the baby to the priest, who tipped his head back to pour the water on it. She
also held the candle with the godfather, a friend of the mother and teacher at
St. Peter’s Primary School, aptly named Wisdom. I on the other hand, assisted
the clergy during the ceremony (the clergy here have taken to calling me the
future Dean of St. Peter’s!).
Immediately after the baptisms, we hurried back to our
house. A friend of Katherine’s from the hospital, Bertha, was supposed to bring
us a chicken! The way we understood it, it was a baby hen to whom we could tend
during our time here and then eat it before departing. We wouldn’t really have
to do much with it, as chickens just wander anywhere they please in Malawi.
However, when we arrived back at our home from the church, the woman was
holding the chicken in one hand and a knife in the other! As it turned out, she
wanted to give us a local chicken to eat. So, we watched her slaughter it, and
then had to figure out how in the world we were going to clean the chicken! With
the help of a neighbor woman, Katherine and I plucked the feathers, cleaned out
the guts, and two hours later placed our chicken in the refrigerator for later
preparation by our cook. What a process!
The next morning, we arose at our usual 6am, took our breakfast,
and prepared for church. Little did we know, our entire day would be consumed
by St. Peter’s Day celebrations. The Mass, which usually takes about three
hours, turned into five hours, filled with singing, dancing, an hour-long
sermon, and of course all of the usual prayers. After this, all of the “visiting
dignitaries,” the UK boys, visiting clergy, and we were invited to a lunch of
traditional Malawian cuisine, very similar to what we have been eating at our
house. Once dinner was finished, we made our way back to the “cathedral
stadium,” which is a somewhat flat space of dirt with not too many rocks where
events in our neighborhood are held.
What we had been told is that an entire host of activities
would occur at this performance, including traditional African (Malawian)
dancing, singing and music. Katherine and I were expecting perhaps a few
hundred people to turn out to this event. However, by the time everything was
in full swing, we, along with the Dean of the Cathedral estimated the crowd to
be no less than THREE THOUSAND, all standing, cheering, and yelling during the
activities! What an event!! We both enjoyed the entertainment very much, but
one of the most entertaining things was this middle-aged gentleman who was some
sort of an official at these activities. He walked around the entire time with
this big stick, moving it back and forth as though he was wielding a sickle
cutting wheat or grass. He did this to threaten all of the little children who
kept creeping in on the performance area, threatening to fill it in with their
little bodies. Just watching him go around swinging this stick within
millimeters of children, threatening to beat them made us laugh quite a bit as
we though of how this would be viewed in the U.S.: probably some parents would
have filed a lawsuit for threatening to harm their children, but here it is
just a part of the culture.
After the long day on Sunday, and a restful night’s sleep to
recover, Monday arrived. Due to Monday being the technical St. Peter’s Day, it
was a holiday on much of the island. Therefore Katherine and I didn’t have work
on Monday. Our work came later on in the day, with our sports tournaments.
Derek played football (soccer) on the clergy’s team against the local boys.
Katherine played “netball” (a sort of soccer/basketball combination popular
here) on a team with some women of the church against the local girls. Both
games were very entertaining for everyone, us included, even though both of our
respective teams lost. The clergy were up at one point by one goal, but we fell
behind at the very end. With the end of the games, the St. Peter’s Day
celebrations came to an end, and Tuesday began the new work week.
Women doing a traditional Malawian dance at St. Peter's Day activities |
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